Further north up the coast between Nasca and Lima lies Pisco. The town is well known for its local brandy (also called Pisco), and off the coast are the Ballestas islands. These sit in the nutrient rich Humboldt current so the islands have some of the largest colonies of sea birds and sea lions in the world. You even get penguins.

Its quick boat ride from the Ballestas harbour to the islands. This crucifix decorates the harbour entrance. Behind the fishermen land anchovy from their boats. Its the huge shoals of anchovy that attracts all the wild life to the islands.

And attracted to the fisherman are large numbers of pelicans. They were quite greedy and bold, getting very close to our boat.

When I made this trip in 1999 this Portugeuse Grandmother was on the boat as well. She was great fun and regailed us with tales of her travels all over the world. She described being attacked by gorillas in Uganda and nearly drowing in a sea kayak off Hawaii. Her family all thought she was mad. Oddly enough in 2002 after the fall of the Taliban there were stories about tourists returning to Afghanistan. A journalist in one paper mentioned meeting a Portuguese grandmother on such a trip. I would love to think that it was her.

On the way to the islands you pass this sight in the coastal dunes, the Candelabra or candle stick. No one really knows what it is for. There are a few theories, my favourite being that it was put there by tour guides to drum up business :-)